Survival tips

Living in Misr, as the Egyptians call their land, is quite a cultural experience. I love many facets, but few others take a long fuse. I've collected some items that I've learned or still in the process of installing into my everyday behaviour.

1. Smile, you are in Egypt. You cannot underestimate the importance of a warm smile in this county. It is not only a nice thing to flash to others, it means you do not harbor hostile thoughts. People smile even when they deliver the most severe complaints or are quite upset. You can say anything with a smile.

2. Keep small notes and coins with you at all times. You will need them in shops, for tipping and public toilets, because there is very little change around.

3. Develop a high tolerance against honking horns. You are honked at about 50 times a day, mostly by taxis, but also other traffic. Add also vendors and any men cooing and yelling after you and commenting your looks. Their top 3 favourites: 1. ”Ohhh... I can't belive my eyes! 2. What beautiful eyes! 3. Krasiva! (see the next point).

4. Learn Russian. It's the second (un)official language here. Most restaurants have a menu in Russian, shop and pharmacy signs have Cyrillic script, and most people speak some of it. In many hotels 70-80 % of the guests are Russian-speakers.

5. Take time to everything. It pays off (sometimes literally) to sit down, drink tea, and chat with people. There's no hurry with people. You will learn a lot from the culture, as Egyptians are eager to share ffrom their lives. I spent one hour buying bedsheets. Before this I had already chosen the exact fabric, model, and color I wanted. They were the top quality famous long-fibre Egyptian sateen cotton. But when I went to pick it up and pay for it, I politely let them show me several models and colors in detail. I turned down their offer to show me towels and other stuff. I asked the price of my sheet set for the first time. Then we drank karkade (hibiscus tea), exchanged Arabic music via bluetooth, got to know the shop clerk and his 2 friends, plus politely refused the invitation to marry him :-). Then we bargained the price and waited if the boss would give me special discount. (The clerk called the boss). Next I read out loud some words in Arabic script for their delight. They asked about my family and job, and again we bargained. The boss eventually called and gave his approval for the special price, only for me, because I was now considered a friend. I finally exited the shop after 60 minutes with a broad smile. I had not only gotten a great deal, but experienced another unique moment.

Impressions on Cairo

Constant stream of vehicles, black and white 80's Lada taxis, all honking and beeping. A maze of ramps and highways in three layers, the highest ones above rooftops. Grey concrete and clay tile buildings, skyscrapers, smog and dust hanging in the air, making even the parks and palm trees grey. The river Nile splits the city into two parts. In daylight Cairo, or Al Cahira in Arabic, is an ugly city, and there seems to be too much of everything.
Cairo with its 22 million people is the largest city in Africa, and it actually is a cluster of 10 cities. Giza, where the pyramids lay, is a different town altogether, the capital of Upper Egypt, which stretches to the southern regions like Luxor.
The Islamic Cairo hosts the Citadel on a hill, completed in 1183, and several mosques. I visited the mosque of Ibn Tulun, where the endless noise of traffic ceases. It is hundreds of years old, and brought a refreshing break after the hustle and bustle of touristy spots and kitch vendors. Spacious inner court, gas lanterns, arching hallways, and light sieving from woodcrafted windows invite the guests to quiet reflection. There is a museum inside the mosque area, with a beautiful garden and a vast collection of items. Some scenes from James Bond 007 The Spy I loved, were filmed here.
Khan el Khalili's bazaar, the largest bazaar area in the Middle East, starts from Al Hussein mosque. Yes, it's the same where the bomb had exploded 2 weeks ago, just 4 days before I explored the narrow alleys. There were policemen and security at every entrance, making sure it was safe. Many stalls were still closed 10 am, when we hit the bazaar, but I found few beautifully decorated scarves, and a carpet.
When you have seen the dusty city, the contrast couldn't be sharper when you explore the city at nighttime. Cairo Tower offers the most breathtaking views. It glistens at dark into distance and stretches 187 metres high. You can take an elevator to top and admire the vistas spreading in every direction. The skyscrapers and hotels rise up to 20 storeys high. If you are lucky, you can catch the light show on the Giza pyramids in the south. I could see the river Nile flowing peacefully below and cruise ships, decorated with hundreds of light bulbs, leisurely gliding in it. I took the opportunity to dine in the rotating restaurant on top. The food was just ok, but the service was superb.
I visited the largest shopping centre, City Stars. After having visited the pyramids, museums, and mosques, it took a while to believe I was still in Cairo. Designer labels and and international brand names offered all you could possibly imagine in six floors. I've been trying to avoid buying a lot of clothes and other stuff, because I will have logistic problems hauling everything back to Finland, so I congratulated myself as I made my exit with only one new shirt!
Cairo is cheap - another trap for shop-a-holics. So cheap that it's easy to catch the shopping virus and buy stuff you don't really need. I have to admit I got infected on the day 2. I bought two pairs of beach slippers, just because they cost only 35 pounds for both, 5 euros.

Taxi rides are cheap, too: 30-40 minute ride for 20-25 pounds, the start-up rate being 60 piasters (less than 10 cents). There is one downside, though: the drivers don't understand a whole lot of English, and therefore they don't always know where they should take you. I once too a taxi who didn't have a clue where he was going, so I got off after few turns. The best strategy is to learn the key terms in Arabic, such as 'mahattet mas' (railway station). The hotels are better recognized.
One thing that annoyed me about Cairo is the toilet caretakers in restaurants, museums and airports. They are all too helpful, pointing where you can get liquid soap, offering you toilet paper, and napkins. It is wonderful, expept that they expect tips with extended hand and begging look in places where there are posted notes on the wall: no tips, please – service is free. However, I fell in love with Cairo, and am looking forward for the next opportunity to visit there again. Wait for me, here I come!

Culinary treats

Now I will take you to my favourite restaurant, where you can sample delicious Oriental dishes.
For starters I advise you to order knickel (vegetable) or lentil soup, served with crispy croutons. The waiter brings to table standard appetizers: hot pita bread, tahina (sesame paste) and babaganou, aubergine paste (picured right). Fried aubergines (pictured top middle) and dolma, stuffed wine leaves, are also worth ordering.
There is plenty of choice with the main course. Stuffed pigeon is a local delicacy, served with seasoned pilau rice. My favourite dish is kebab halabi, which is a long skewer of minced lamb meat grilled on open fire and served with herbs. Or try Turkish kebab: minced lamb skewer with spicy tomato and garlic sauce. Camel steak is available in some restaurants, the taste resembling pork.
The menu has plenty of healthy drinks, which are called 'non-alcoholic coctails'. I often go for mango smoothie with honey or Florida, a mixture of strawberry, mango and guava nectars.
For dessert I recommend sähläb, which is hot milk pudding with coconut and raisins. For something light, make your pick from an array of fresh seasonal fruits: caneloupe, strawberries, or watermelon. The meal ends with a glass of mint tea. The waiter is thanked with a tip, which is about 10 % of the total sum.