Conquering Mt. Sinai

One of my dreams during my stay was to climb on Mt. Sinai. I had few days off in May and flew to Sharm el Sheikh to realize my desire.
Our Egyptian guide picked me up 22:15 from the hotel, and the others after me: 3 French-Egyptians, 4 Russians, and 2 Egyptians. I didn't know beforehand that it would be a 3-hour drive to the base, 1500 m from the sea level. We reached the gate of the national park 2:25 am. Each was given a bottle of water and a flashlight. And then we started climbing.
The trail was quite narrow, and we had to beware of camels, that were available, if anyone would get too tired to hike. Every 40 minutes were took a rest of 5 minutes and then we pressed on. We were not alone on the mountain: every night about 3,000 pilgrims venture towards the top, so the huts along the trail and the path was quite crowded at times.
I felt dizzy and slight headache in the beginning, but it passed after I took some painkillers. After a couple of hours of climbing I didn't feel tiredness or the altitude, just totally at balance. It was full moon, so we could see the outline of the surrounding mountains and numerous stars. The trail was dotted with hundreds of torchlights of fellow climbers coming up the rugged terrain.
The last leg before the top, 2285 metres, was the steepest and the most dangerous. We stepped into 350 stone stairs in pairs, and every now and then we had to stop to wait, because of the long queue ahead: everyone wanted to reach the top before sunrise.
Finally, after 7 kilometres and 3 hours of climbing, we were on top. It was cold (+10 C), but the scenery was breathtaking: sharp mountaintops reaching into 2000-3000 metres everywhere around us. The rising sun coloured the sky orange long before we saw the red ball of sun emerge in the east. We took our time to snap pictures and admire the barren beauty of the uplands. Then we took a steep plunge down: 700 stone blocks and 2 hours later we we back in the starting point, St. Catherine's monastery. We paid homage to the Burning Bush and the well of Moses, where he supposedly met his wife-to-be, Zipporah.
In Egypt you have a change to plunge into the depths of the sea or to the bottom of the pyramid, or to reach the heights of the highest peaks. The hike was no walk in the park, but absolutely an experience to remember for a lifetime.

Nowhere else than in Egypt...

I like Egypt. It is not only getting warm, but soon I will start missing this country, for my contract is coming to end here.
Where else does a driver casually stop the bus or taxi and walk to a convenience store to buy a pack of cigarettes, and then continue driving like it was the most natural thing to do.
Where else can you walk into your favourite restaurant and ask them to open the wine bottle for you (if you don't have the corksrew), as in Egypt they are nowhere to be found in shops.
You can also ask the landlord/security of your building to go and buy a prepaid phone card or bring some takeaway food for you.
In hospital you can get past the queue in you know some doctor there, or if you take with you a friend who does.
The landlord/security doesn't allow the Egyptians of the opposite sex come into your apartment, unless there are several, or they are rich and figure a way to pay. Likewise the Europeans are not allowed into most Egyptian's apartments.
In this country they will also do anything to sell you an item. Once I wanted buy a beautiful lilac turtleneck sweater. One knitted string loop had gotten loose in the middle of the front part, and as I mentioned this to the seller in order to get the price down, he got his scissors and cut the loop, which practically ruined the whole sweater.
If the shop owner doesn't have change, he may give you a cookie or candy instead. If you buy something expensive, you'll often get an extra gift.
This list could be continued endlessly. Nowhere else than in Egypt...

Survival tips

Living in Misr, as the Egyptians call their land, is quite a cultural experience. I love many facets, but few others take a long fuse. I've collected some items that I've learned or still in the process of installing into my everyday behaviour.

1. Smile, you are in Egypt. You cannot underestimate the importance of a warm smile in this county. It is not only a nice thing to flash to others, it means you do not harbor hostile thoughts. People smile even when they deliver the most severe complaints or are quite upset. You can say anything with a smile.

2. Keep small notes and coins with you at all times. You will need them in shops, for tipping and public toilets, because there is very little change around.

3. Develop a high tolerance against honking horns. You are honked at about 50 times a day, mostly by taxis, but also other traffic. Add also vendors and any men cooing and yelling after you and commenting your looks. Their top 3 favourites: 1. ”Ohhh... I can't belive my eyes! 2. What beautiful eyes! 3. Krasiva! (see the next point).

4. Learn Russian. It's the second (un)official language here. Most restaurants have a menu in Russian, shop and pharmacy signs have Cyrillic script, and most people speak some of it. In many hotels 70-80 % of the guests are Russian-speakers.

5. Take time to everything. It pays off (sometimes literally) to sit down, drink tea, and chat with people. There's no hurry with people. You will learn a lot from the culture, as Egyptians are eager to share ffrom their lives. I spent one hour buying bedsheets. Before this I had already chosen the exact fabric, model, and color I wanted. They were the top quality famous long-fibre Egyptian sateen cotton. But when I went to pick it up and pay for it, I politely let them show me several models and colors in detail. I turned down their offer to show me towels and other stuff. I asked the price of my sheet set for the first time. Then we drank karkade (hibiscus tea), exchanged Arabic music via bluetooth, got to know the shop clerk and his 2 friends, plus politely refused the invitation to marry him :-). Then we bargained the price and waited if the boss would give me special discount. (The clerk called the boss). Next I read out loud some words in Arabic script for their delight. They asked about my family and job, and again we bargained. The boss eventually called and gave his approval for the special price, only for me, because I was now considered a friend. I finally exited the shop after 60 minutes with a broad smile. I had not only gotten a great deal, but experienced another unique moment.

Impressions on Cairo

Constant stream of vehicles, black and white 80's Lada taxis, all honking and beeping. A maze of ramps and highways in three layers, the highest ones above rooftops. Grey concrete and clay tile buildings, skyscrapers, smog and dust hanging in the air, making even the parks and palm trees grey. The river Nile splits the city into two parts. In daylight Cairo, or Al Cahira in Arabic, is an ugly city, and there seems to be too much of everything.
Cairo with its 22 million people is the largest city in Africa, and it actually is a cluster of 10 cities. Giza, where the pyramids lay, is a different town altogether, the capital of Upper Egypt, which stretches to the southern regions like Luxor.
The Islamic Cairo hosts the Citadel on a hill, completed in 1183, and several mosques. I visited the mosque of Ibn Tulun, where the endless noise of traffic ceases. It is hundreds of years old, and brought a refreshing break after the hustle and bustle of touristy spots and kitch vendors. Spacious inner court, gas lanterns, arching hallways, and light sieving from woodcrafted windows invite the guests to quiet reflection. There is a museum inside the mosque area, with a beautiful garden and a vast collection of items. Some scenes from James Bond 007 The Spy I loved, were filmed here.
Khan el Khalili's bazaar, the largest bazaar area in the Middle East, starts from Al Hussein mosque. Yes, it's the same where the bomb had exploded 2 weeks ago, just 4 days before I explored the narrow alleys. There were policemen and security at every entrance, making sure it was safe. Many stalls were still closed 10 am, when we hit the bazaar, but I found few beautifully decorated scarves, and a carpet.
When you have seen the dusty city, the contrast couldn't be sharper when you explore the city at nighttime. Cairo Tower offers the most breathtaking views. It glistens at dark into distance and stretches 187 metres high. You can take an elevator to top and admire the vistas spreading in every direction. The skyscrapers and hotels rise up to 20 storeys high. If you are lucky, you can catch the light show on the Giza pyramids in the south. I could see the river Nile flowing peacefully below and cruise ships, decorated with hundreds of light bulbs, leisurely gliding in it. I took the opportunity to dine in the rotating restaurant on top. The food was just ok, but the service was superb.
I visited the largest shopping centre, City Stars. After having visited the pyramids, museums, and mosques, it took a while to believe I was still in Cairo. Designer labels and and international brand names offered all you could possibly imagine in six floors. I've been trying to avoid buying a lot of clothes and other stuff, because I will have logistic problems hauling everything back to Finland, so I congratulated myself as I made my exit with only one new shirt!
Cairo is cheap - another trap for shop-a-holics. So cheap that it's easy to catch the shopping virus and buy stuff you don't really need. I have to admit I got infected on the day 2. I bought two pairs of beach slippers, just because they cost only 35 pounds for both, 5 euros.

Taxi rides are cheap, too: 30-40 minute ride for 20-25 pounds, the start-up rate being 60 piasters (less than 10 cents). There is one downside, though: the drivers don't understand a whole lot of English, and therefore they don't always know where they should take you. I once too a taxi who didn't have a clue where he was going, so I got off after few turns. The best strategy is to learn the key terms in Arabic, such as 'mahattet mas' (railway station). The hotels are better recognized.
One thing that annoyed me about Cairo is the toilet caretakers in restaurants, museums and airports. They are all too helpful, pointing where you can get liquid soap, offering you toilet paper, and napkins. It is wonderful, expept that they expect tips with extended hand and begging look in places where there are posted notes on the wall: no tips, please – service is free. However, I fell in love with Cairo, and am looking forward for the next opportunity to visit there again. Wait for me, here I come!

Culinary treats

Now I will take you to my favourite restaurant, where you can sample delicious Oriental dishes.
For starters I advise you to order knickel (vegetable) or lentil soup, served with crispy croutons. The waiter brings to table standard appetizers: hot pita bread, tahina (sesame paste) and babaganou, aubergine paste (picured right). Fried aubergines (pictured top middle) and dolma, stuffed wine leaves, are also worth ordering.
There is plenty of choice with the main course. Stuffed pigeon is a local delicacy, served with seasoned pilau rice. My favourite dish is kebab halabi, which is a long skewer of minced lamb meat grilled on open fire and served with herbs. Or try Turkish kebab: minced lamb skewer with spicy tomato and garlic sauce. Camel steak is available in some restaurants, the taste resembling pork.
The menu has plenty of healthy drinks, which are called 'non-alcoholic coctails'. I often go for mango smoothie with honey or Florida, a mixture of strawberry, mango and guava nectars.
For dessert I recommend sähläb, which is hot milk pudding with coconut and raisins. For something light, make your pick from an array of fresh seasonal fruits: caneloupe, strawberries, or watermelon. The meal ends with a glass of mint tea. The waiter is thanked with a tip, which is about 10 % of the total sum.

Arabic wedding

I was delighted to receive an invitation to an Egyptian-European couple's wedding. It was held in a banquet hall of a large hotel. When I entered with my friends, the dj was playing lively Arabic tunes. The Egyptian family members and friends were seated on the left side, and the other guests and colleagues on the other. The chairs were decorated with balloons, and there were two large hearts on the podium, displaying the couple's names.
There was no MC to lead the occasion or to announce what would happen next, like in European weddings – one of the biggest differences I observed. At least that solved the issue of multi-lingual gathering. The whole evening flowed seamlessly from one event into other, and Oriental music played a big part. Everyone took snapshots of the bride and the groom. Then the guests were invited to dance – ladies with the bride, and men with the groom, both in their own circles.
Then it was time for a lavish buffet dinner. There was a everything one could possibly imagine, from appetizers to salad, soup, and meat The chef had made delicate and imaginative ornaments from vegetables and fruits. Because of the Muslim family, only soft drinks were served, no alcohol. After dinner the rings were brought forward on a red pillow. The bride placed the fingertips of both hands together, and the groom slid the engagement ring from right hand to the left, along the fourth finger. The bride repeated the same for the groom, and they exchanged kisses – on the cheek and forehead, as was appropriate.
The newlyweds then had their first dance as brand-new Mr. and Mrs. Both had chosed a special song, one in English, and the other in Arabic by a Egyptian celebrity singer, Amr Diab. More dance followed, and first the parents, and then all the guests were invited to join.
We proceeded to sample the desserts – cakes, tarts, cookies, and baklava pastries. We were all given star-rain sticks, and as we lit them, the wedding cake was carried forward, as well as a long, sharp knife. The couple was assisted by the manager of the hotel to cut the cake, and again this was celebrated by dancing.
Gifts were handed to the couple. As the custom went, we took our turn to extend an envelope, containing money. Then we climbed on the podium, and took pictures with the bride and groom.
Four belly dancers emerged, dressed in rather revealing apparel. They performed several numbers, and changed costumes in between. Then four men, dressed in traditional, loose garments, danced with long sticks, beating them on the ground according to the rhythm. The lead belly dancer performed a routine in front of the bride, and invited her to join her on the dance floor. The groom's turn came next. Groom's friends jumped to the floor, and danced around him.
There was one more typical Egyptian dance number, called tanoura (pictured). It is performed by a man, dressed in several layers of colourful skirts, spinning around for nearly ten minutes. The skirts were lifted high, at times covering the face of the dancer. At one point he removed the topmost skirt, and formed a bundle, resembling a baby, while he kept whirling around without break.
Five hours later the newlyweds made their exit. Musicians playing a drum and traditional horn lead the way, and the guests followed at the wake of the couple. Women took a souvenir from the floral centrepiece as they left the hall. A car with a driver was waiting outside, and the escort customarily honked the horn all the way until the destination.

Everyday life in Egypt #1

I've shared some of the highlights and unique experiences. Now I want to give you few glimpses into my everyday life.

At grocery store
There's a 24/7 mini-market downstairs of my apt. They sell juice, milk, candy, chocolate, toothpaste, phone cards, and 6-litre water jars, my main staple from the shop. The cashier typically doesn't have change, the case in all shops, so I need to have an exact amount. If I don't, no big deal, I pay the rest the next time I drop by. When I have picked the products I want to purchase, the following conversation often follows.
- Salaam aleikum. I will take these (juice, water, and some candy).
-Cigarettes?
-No, thanks.
-Phone cards?
-No, thanks.
-Bubble gum?
-No, thanks. (If the clerk doesn't have enough change, I'll get bubble gum instead).
-Cigarettes? (again)
-No, I don't smoke. Halas (This is all).

The clerk shows the price with his calculator. He then picks up a plastic bag, and I say, 'La shokran' (no thanks). This happens every time, even though he knows me. It is very hard for a local person to comprehend why someone doesn't want a plastic bag. It's equally hard for me to accept one, thanks to my Western mind, brainwashed with environmetal consciousness.
The plastic bags were forbidden in the Red Sea governorate in August, because they are a major environmental issue. The governor gave one month's transition period, but now, half of year later, there is no change. The shop clerks, especially at grocery stores, are obsessed with handing out bags, and one is not enough. There's a bag for every few items. A multitude of plastic bags are stuck in the airport fence. A plastic bag flying in the wind is such a common sight that it has actually been nominated the unofficial national bird of Egypt.

Laundry
One of my colleagues has a washing machine, but it's more convenient to drop dirty clothes at landry, located downstairs of my place. The price for washing and ironing is identical for any item, 1 Egyptian pound (15 cents) from a sock to bedsheet. The laundry is dried outside, where the brisk sea wind and hot sun dries it in few hours. The clothesline hangs between two tile pillars of an abandoned high-rise building site. The clothes are ready to be picked the next day. They are neatly folded and packed – you guessed it – in a plastic bag, and the price tag is stapled on top.

Transportation
There are downtown-hotel buses, microbuses and taxis. My favourite mode of transportation is microbus, a.k.a. yalla-bus. ('yalla' means 'let's go'). They stop anywhere you wawe your hand, and a two-kilometre trip costs 0,5-1 pound, depending on how local you behave. When you enter, you tell the driver your destination. There are no street names, so you just name the nearest shop, hotel, or restaurant where you want to get off, such as Vodafone or McDonalds. You can also just jump in, and when you want to get off, holler: 'Älägäm hena' (Stop here.) In Arabic there are no polite forms, such as 'please' or 'could you...' You just tell, 'do this'.
Taxis can be a pain in the neck. They are cheap (10-minute ride equivalent to 1,3 euros), but they don't always know the way, and sometimes try to trick you. They may claim you only gave them 50 piasters (half a pound) instead of 50 pounds, and sometimes they refuse to drive you if you are going only for few kilometres, or bargain too low price. No big deal though, because there are over 1000 taxis around, about 50 % of the car population. Normally you need to negotiate the price beforehand, but I've learned the local way: state the destination, and pay whatever seems appropriate. There are hardly any complaints. The drivers blast Arabic music (talk about a cultural experience), but they also smoke while they drive, as 90% of men everywere, inside the buses, cafes, and apartments.

Ah, and the taxis love to honk the horn. The drivers have developed a diverse language using the horn. It means, depending on the context, 'I'm free, jump in', 'Watch out', I'm about to pass you by', 'You idiot/move faster'. A newly-weds' escort is also announced by beeping the horn. At dark horn-honking is replaced with flapping the far lights on and off. Nearly not all drivers use driving lights at dark, because they think they disturb others. The emergency lights come handy at dark, especially when the car needs to slow down at bumps. I've also gove native, both by honking the horn and using emergency lights, whenever appropriate.