Survival tips

Living in Misr, as the Egyptians call their land, is quite a cultural experience. I love many facets, but few others take a long fuse. I've collected some items that I've learned or still in the process of installing into my everyday behaviour.

1. Smile, you are in Egypt. You cannot underestimate the importance of a warm smile in this county. It is not only a nice thing to flash to others, it means you do not harbor hostile thoughts. People smile even when they deliver the most severe complaints or are quite upset. You can say anything with a smile.

2. Keep small notes and coins with you at all times. You will need them in shops, for tipping and public toilets, because there is very little change around.

3. Develop a high tolerance against honking horns. You are honked at about 50 times a day, mostly by taxis, but also other traffic. Add also vendors and any men cooing and yelling after you and commenting your looks. Their top 3 favourites: 1. ”Ohhh... I can't belive my eyes! 2. What beautiful eyes! 3. Krasiva! (see the next point).

4. Learn Russian. It's the second (un)official language here. Most restaurants have a menu in Russian, shop and pharmacy signs have Cyrillic script, and most people speak some of it. In many hotels 70-80 % of the guests are Russian-speakers.

5. Take time to everything. It pays off (sometimes literally) to sit down, drink tea, and chat with people. There's no hurry with people. You will learn a lot from the culture, as Egyptians are eager to share ffrom their lives. I spent one hour buying bedsheets. Before this I had already chosen the exact fabric, model, and color I wanted. They were the top quality famous long-fibre Egyptian sateen cotton. But when I went to pick it up and pay for it, I politely let them show me several models and colors in detail. I turned down their offer to show me towels and other stuff. I asked the price of my sheet set for the first time. Then we drank karkade (hibiscus tea), exchanged Arabic music via bluetooth, got to know the shop clerk and his 2 friends, plus politely refused the invitation to marry him :-). Then we bargained the price and waited if the boss would give me special discount. (The clerk called the boss). Next I read out loud some words in Arabic script for their delight. They asked about my family and job, and again we bargained. The boss eventually called and gave his approval for the special price, only for me, because I was now considered a friend. I finally exited the shop after 60 minutes with a broad smile. I had not only gotten a great deal, but experienced another unique moment.

Impressions on Cairo

Constant stream of vehicles, black and white 80's Lada taxis, all honking and beeping. A maze of ramps and highways in three layers, the highest ones above rooftops. Grey concrete and clay tile buildings, skyscrapers, smog and dust hanging in the air, making even the parks and palm trees grey. The river Nile splits the city into two parts. In daylight Cairo, or Al Cahira in Arabic, is an ugly city, and there seems to be too much of everything.
Cairo with its 22 million people is the largest city in Africa, and it actually is a cluster of 10 cities. Giza, where the pyramids lay, is a different town altogether, the capital of Upper Egypt, which stretches to the southern regions like Luxor.
The Islamic Cairo hosts the Citadel on a hill, completed in 1183, and several mosques. I visited the mosque of Ibn Tulun, where the endless noise of traffic ceases. It is hundreds of years old, and brought a refreshing break after the hustle and bustle of touristy spots and kitch vendors. Spacious inner court, gas lanterns, arching hallways, and light sieving from woodcrafted windows invite the guests to quiet reflection. There is a museum inside the mosque area, with a beautiful garden and a vast collection of items. Some scenes from James Bond 007 The Spy I loved, were filmed here.
Khan el Khalili's bazaar, the largest bazaar area in the Middle East, starts from Al Hussein mosque. Yes, it's the same where the bomb had exploded 2 weeks ago, just 4 days before I explored the narrow alleys. There were policemen and security at every entrance, making sure it was safe. Many stalls were still closed 10 am, when we hit the bazaar, but I found few beautifully decorated scarves, and a carpet.
When you have seen the dusty city, the contrast couldn't be sharper when you explore the city at nighttime. Cairo Tower offers the most breathtaking views. It glistens at dark into distance and stretches 187 metres high. You can take an elevator to top and admire the vistas spreading in every direction. The skyscrapers and hotels rise up to 20 storeys high. If you are lucky, you can catch the light show on the Giza pyramids in the south. I could see the river Nile flowing peacefully below and cruise ships, decorated with hundreds of light bulbs, leisurely gliding in it. I took the opportunity to dine in the rotating restaurant on top. The food was just ok, but the service was superb.
I visited the largest shopping centre, City Stars. After having visited the pyramids, museums, and mosques, it took a while to believe I was still in Cairo. Designer labels and and international brand names offered all you could possibly imagine in six floors. I've been trying to avoid buying a lot of clothes and other stuff, because I will have logistic problems hauling everything back to Finland, so I congratulated myself as I made my exit with only one new shirt!
Cairo is cheap - another trap for shop-a-holics. So cheap that it's easy to catch the shopping virus and buy stuff you don't really need. I have to admit I got infected on the day 2. I bought two pairs of beach slippers, just because they cost only 35 pounds for both, 5 euros.

Taxi rides are cheap, too: 30-40 minute ride for 20-25 pounds, the start-up rate being 60 piasters (less than 10 cents). There is one downside, though: the drivers don't understand a whole lot of English, and therefore they don't always know where they should take you. I once too a taxi who didn't have a clue where he was going, so I got off after few turns. The best strategy is to learn the key terms in Arabic, such as 'mahattet mas' (railway station). The hotels are better recognized.
One thing that annoyed me about Cairo is the toilet caretakers in restaurants, museums and airports. They are all too helpful, pointing where you can get liquid soap, offering you toilet paper, and napkins. It is wonderful, expept that they expect tips with extended hand and begging look in places where there are posted notes on the wall: no tips, please – service is free. However, I fell in love with Cairo, and am looking forward for the next opportunity to visit there again. Wait for me, here I come!

Culinary treats

Now I will take you to my favourite restaurant, where you can sample delicious Oriental dishes.
For starters I advise you to order knickel (vegetable) or lentil soup, served with crispy croutons. The waiter brings to table standard appetizers: hot pita bread, tahina (sesame paste) and babaganou, aubergine paste (picured right). Fried aubergines (pictured top middle) and dolma, stuffed wine leaves, are also worth ordering.
There is plenty of choice with the main course. Stuffed pigeon is a local delicacy, served with seasoned pilau rice. My favourite dish is kebab halabi, which is a long skewer of minced lamb meat grilled on open fire and served with herbs. Or try Turkish kebab: minced lamb skewer with spicy tomato and garlic sauce. Camel steak is available in some restaurants, the taste resembling pork.
The menu has plenty of healthy drinks, which are called 'non-alcoholic coctails'. I often go for mango smoothie with honey or Florida, a mixture of strawberry, mango and guava nectars.
For dessert I recommend sähläb, which is hot milk pudding with coconut and raisins. For something light, make your pick from an array of fresh seasonal fruits: caneloupe, strawberries, or watermelon. The meal ends with a glass of mint tea. The waiter is thanked with a tip, which is about 10 % of the total sum.

Arabic wedding

I was delighted to receive an invitation to an Egyptian-European couple's wedding. It was held in a banquet hall of a large hotel. When I entered with my friends, the dj was playing lively Arabic tunes. The Egyptian family members and friends were seated on the left side, and the other guests and colleagues on the other. The chairs were decorated with balloons, and there were two large hearts on the podium, displaying the couple's names.
There was no MC to lead the occasion or to announce what would happen next, like in European weddings – one of the biggest differences I observed. At least that solved the issue of multi-lingual gathering. The whole evening flowed seamlessly from one event into other, and Oriental music played a big part. Everyone took snapshots of the bride and the groom. Then the guests were invited to dance – ladies with the bride, and men with the groom, both in their own circles.
Then it was time for a lavish buffet dinner. There was a everything one could possibly imagine, from appetizers to salad, soup, and meat The chef had made delicate and imaginative ornaments from vegetables and fruits. Because of the Muslim family, only soft drinks were served, no alcohol. After dinner the rings were brought forward on a red pillow. The bride placed the fingertips of both hands together, and the groom slid the engagement ring from right hand to the left, along the fourth finger. The bride repeated the same for the groom, and they exchanged kisses – on the cheek and forehead, as was appropriate.
The newlyweds then had their first dance as brand-new Mr. and Mrs. Both had chosed a special song, one in English, and the other in Arabic by a Egyptian celebrity singer, Amr Diab. More dance followed, and first the parents, and then all the guests were invited to join.
We proceeded to sample the desserts – cakes, tarts, cookies, and baklava pastries. We were all given star-rain sticks, and as we lit them, the wedding cake was carried forward, as well as a long, sharp knife. The couple was assisted by the manager of the hotel to cut the cake, and again this was celebrated by dancing.
Gifts were handed to the couple. As the custom went, we took our turn to extend an envelope, containing money. Then we climbed on the podium, and took pictures with the bride and groom.
Four belly dancers emerged, dressed in rather revealing apparel. They performed several numbers, and changed costumes in between. Then four men, dressed in traditional, loose garments, danced with long sticks, beating them on the ground according to the rhythm. The lead belly dancer performed a routine in front of the bride, and invited her to join her on the dance floor. The groom's turn came next. Groom's friends jumped to the floor, and danced around him.
There was one more typical Egyptian dance number, called tanoura (pictured). It is performed by a man, dressed in several layers of colourful skirts, spinning around for nearly ten minutes. The skirts were lifted high, at times covering the face of the dancer. At one point he removed the topmost skirt, and formed a bundle, resembling a baby, while he kept whirling around without break.
Five hours later the newlyweds made their exit. Musicians playing a drum and traditional horn lead the way, and the guests followed at the wake of the couple. Women took a souvenir from the floral centrepiece as they left the hall. A car with a driver was waiting outside, and the escort customarily honked the horn all the way until the destination.

Everyday life in Egypt #1

I've shared some of the highlights and unique experiences. Now I want to give you few glimpses into my everyday life.

At grocery store
There's a 24/7 mini-market downstairs of my apt. They sell juice, milk, candy, chocolate, toothpaste, phone cards, and 6-litre water jars, my main staple from the shop. The cashier typically doesn't have change, the case in all shops, so I need to have an exact amount. If I don't, no big deal, I pay the rest the next time I drop by. When I have picked the products I want to purchase, the following conversation often follows.
- Salaam aleikum. I will take these (juice, water, and some candy).
-Cigarettes?
-No, thanks.
-Phone cards?
-No, thanks.
-Bubble gum?
-No, thanks. (If the clerk doesn't have enough change, I'll get bubble gum instead).
-Cigarettes? (again)
-No, I don't smoke. Halas (This is all).

The clerk shows the price with his calculator. He then picks up a plastic bag, and I say, 'La shokran' (no thanks). This happens every time, even though he knows me. It is very hard for a local person to comprehend why someone doesn't want a plastic bag. It's equally hard for me to accept one, thanks to my Western mind, brainwashed with environmetal consciousness.
The plastic bags were forbidden in the Red Sea governorate in August, because they are a major environmental issue. The governor gave one month's transition period, but now, half of year later, there is no change. The shop clerks, especially at grocery stores, are obsessed with handing out bags, and one is not enough. There's a bag for every few items. A multitude of plastic bags are stuck in the airport fence. A plastic bag flying in the wind is such a common sight that it has actually been nominated the unofficial national bird of Egypt.

Laundry
One of my colleagues has a washing machine, but it's more convenient to drop dirty clothes at landry, located downstairs of my place. The price for washing and ironing is identical for any item, 1 Egyptian pound (15 cents) from a sock to bedsheet. The laundry is dried outside, where the brisk sea wind and hot sun dries it in few hours. The clothesline hangs between two tile pillars of an abandoned high-rise building site. The clothes are ready to be picked the next day. They are neatly folded and packed – you guessed it – in a plastic bag, and the price tag is stapled on top.

Transportation
There are downtown-hotel buses, microbuses and taxis. My favourite mode of transportation is microbus, a.k.a. yalla-bus. ('yalla' means 'let's go'). They stop anywhere you wawe your hand, and a two-kilometre trip costs 0,5-1 pound, depending on how local you behave. When you enter, you tell the driver your destination. There are no street names, so you just name the nearest shop, hotel, or restaurant where you want to get off, such as Vodafone or McDonalds. You can also just jump in, and when you want to get off, holler: 'Älägäm hena' (Stop here.) In Arabic there are no polite forms, such as 'please' or 'could you...' You just tell, 'do this'.
Taxis can be a pain in the neck. They are cheap (10-minute ride equivalent to 1,3 euros), but they don't always know the way, and sometimes try to trick you. They may claim you only gave them 50 piasters (half a pound) instead of 50 pounds, and sometimes they refuse to drive you if you are going only for few kilometres, or bargain too low price. No big deal though, because there are over 1000 taxis around, about 50 % of the car population. Normally you need to negotiate the price beforehand, but I've learned the local way: state the destination, and pay whatever seems appropriate. There are hardly any complaints. The drivers blast Arabic music (talk about a cultural experience), but they also smoke while they drive, as 90% of men everywere, inside the buses, cafes, and apartments.

Ah, and the taxis love to honk the horn. The drivers have developed a diverse language using the horn. It means, depending on the context, 'I'm free, jump in', 'Watch out', I'm about to pass you by', 'You idiot/move faster'. A newly-weds' escort is also announced by beeping the horn. At dark horn-honking is replaced with flapping the far lights on and off. Nearly not all drivers use driving lights at dark, because they think they disturb others. The emergency lights come handy at dark, especially when the car needs to slow down at bumps. I've also gove native, both by honking the horn and using emergency lights, whenever appropriate.

Mini-getaway in luxurious Luxor

I've started leading excursions to Luxor for my countrymates. I had two days off in a row (normally only one per week), so I decided I'll explore a new city during this mini-vacation.
Bus tickets are sold on the day of travel. The bus was to leave 7am, so I had to fetch the ticket 6 am. I was in queue early to make sure I got the ticket. It was pitch-dark, and at 5:45 I was the first one - there wasn't anyone else even around. The bus left 7:30, and 4 hours later I arrived in Luxor. The scenery on the way was breathtaking: sandstone mountain peaks rising to 1,5 km on both sides, and endless plains of Eastern Sahara sand. Halfway to the town the landscape changed dramatically, as we reached one of the watering channels of the Nile: lush, green sugarcane, sesame and aubergine fields, donkeys pulling wooden carts, and farmers strolling in long calabeya dresses.
I hitched a horse and kitch-decorated carriage for 10 LE (1,5 euros) to reach my hotel. Warm sun felt blissful after freezing cold air-conditioning in the bus. I had been shivering the whole journey and loaded on all my winter wear: woollen socks, double-layer sports pants, scarf and wind-proof jacket. Egyptian buses are notorious for their effective air-conditioning, and this one had been no exception. After few days I was diagnozed with bronchitis, so no wonder I had felt sick.
I hadn't even finished checking in the hotel, when my phone rang. My agent called and wanted to finalise the arrangements for next morning's hot air balloon ride, the highlight and main purpose of my visit. Soon my local colleague was waiting for my downstairs with a car and chauffeur. We were on our way to animal hospital. We drove through the streets of Luxor, and my colleague was greetings ackquaintances and neighbors here and there from the open window.
The hospital housed donkeys (cute little white ones) and horses. The establishment in run by donations, and the services are free for the owners. The objective is to improve the conditions and treatment of the work animals. They are fed and cured, also operated on, if necessary. Anyone could bring his donkey and horse to be washed. The vets also visit surrounding villages to educate farmers and lead animal clinics.
Next I visited the Luxor temple. It used to be connected to Karnak temple with a 1,6 km long sfinx alley. Then I had the 5-o'clock tea in Winter Garden, the best hotel in town. When Tutankhamon's grave was discovered in the King's Valley by Howard Carter in 1922, the sensational press conference was held in this hotel. It is built in Victorian style and it features a large botanical garden, where I had my 5-o'clock tea.
After all this I felt quite sick, so I returned to my hotel room. I realized I needed some medicine, but I couldn't locate an open pharmacy. I later discovered that the were all closed because of the Coptic Christmas on Jan 7. I kept walking and looking, and eventually took a microbus downtown. I ended up in the bazaar area, and bought few beautiful hand-stiched pillow cases. I asked for a pharmacy, and one stall owner pointed to a dark alley. I said I was not going there, but he sent his 11-year-old son to go with me. After several turns in the sandy backstreets we arrived at pharmacy, and I got my cough drops.
Back in the hotel room I enjoyed from a long, hot bath. When I had left my apt, we didn't have much warm water in tap, just few drops, and my flatmate said while I was gone, there had been no hot water at all!! I went to sleep early, because the next morning I would be picked up 5:25 am for a hote air balloon ride.
A minivan whisked us to Nile river bank, where we got into little open-air boats. We had tea and cake, and crossed over to the Western bank. After another short journey on microbus we arrived on a field. Several hot air balloons towered above us, as the crews funneled hot air from gas bottles. The flames went high inside the balloons. The daylight was beginning to show.
We were given a short briefing on safety instructions. Then the 22 of us climbed into a large, wowen basket with several compartments. The ground crew let go of the basket, and in few minutes we were hundreds of meters high in the air.
The sun was beginning to rise, but there was a thick mist on the sugar cane field near the river bank. The scenery was magnificent. King's Valley as the backdrop, we first sailed towards Hatsepsut's terrace temple, dating 3400 years back, then towards the columns on Memnon, built around 1300 B.C. We then made a plunge in the sugar cane field so that we could touch the plants with our hands. The we took off to the sky again. The crew was letting out hot air from gas tanks every now and then, and they made whizzing noise. I was standing next to one of the gas bottles, and despite cool morning air it was warm. After 50 minutes of flying, the captain dropped down a long cord. The ground crew pulled us down and we landed on the same plot we had taken off. The landing was very smooth, and in no time the crew had emptied and packed the balloon away. We headed back to hotels, and as we said good-byes to the captain, we were given certificates for flying on one of the world's largest hot air balloons.
I went back to sleep after a lavish breakfast. Then I visited a one-room mummification museum, featuring mummies of a baby crocodile, a baboon and some birds. A driver took me to bus station outside the city. We still had extra time, so he drove me to nearby village and showed the countryside. Everything was green, because of the Nile watering channels. He said his friend lived nearby, and asked if I wanted to see his house. I was delighted to see how the locals lived. I was shown calves and goats on the back yard, and then we went on the roof. It was a place where corn was dried for poultry. I took my turn feeding them by throwing a handful down to chickens, ducks, pigeons, and one rabbit.
Then I was introduced to the couple who lived in the house. The wife showed me around their the 3-room house and gave me some freshly squeezed lemon to drink. Then we said good-byes, and they welcomed me back.
The bus arrived 30 minutes late, which already seemed to be a norm. This time we stopped on several cities on the way. After one hour several local men came onboard. One of them, wearing long grey dress and white turban had 12 men seeing him off. Each of them came inside the bus one by one and wished his a nice journey and kissed him goodbye on both cheeks as the local custom goes. I gathered he was going for a long journey, maybe even on pilgrimage, or that he was a man of significance. Six hours later I arrived back home, so many experiences richer than when I had left.

Plucking eye brows on New Year's eve

Winter has arrived in Egypt. On New Years' eve the temperature dropped to +5 degrees because of ice-cold wind. Gloves and winter jacket were not an overstatement, when going out for shopping. I went out to buy juice, chocolate, mandarins, and strawberries for New Years's dinner. (Ironically enough, the strawberry season is at its peak now, and they are big and delicious). On the way I wanted to buy a knitted, turtle-neck sweater. The clothes store was locked, even though the sign said ”Open” and the lights were on. I asked the neighboring barber's shop where the owner was. At McDonald's downstairs, came the reply. Ok, I decided to hang out and wait for a few minutes.

One of the guys working at hairdressers', next door, peeked out to ask in I wanted to have my eye brows plucked. It is traditionally done with sowing thread that is folded into two, and then rolled and twisted between the fingers, while moving it near the hairs to be removed. ”Only 5 minutes! You'll get it for 20 pounds.” (2,5 euros). I agreed, since I had planned to do that anyway in one of these days, and I thought after that the clothes store may be open again.

The barber's saloon was full of young Egyptian guys – at least 5 working, and other 5 as clients. Everyone took a good look of me, but later my ”beautician” assured me that they also have female clients. The Arabic people prefer woman's face to be ”as white as moonlight” (why talc and bleaching face creams are popular here), and without any facial hair, excect eye brows. Therefore I was not surprised when the beautician asked if I wanted also other facial hair removed (forehead, cheeks, above top lip). Even though my facial hair is invisible and minimal, this is standard procedure. One could describe plucking eye brows more accurately ”plucking your face”. I need to add that the shops here don't feature women's leg/underarm shaving gel, only for men's beard, so that's what I use :-) There is a copious supply of wax strips, because the local women also shave also their arm hair.
Now that this procedure was completed, the guy started speading lotion into my face and massaging it in. Then he asked if I also wanted a facial mask and steaming. I gathered this was not part of the plucking deal any more, so I asked the price. ”Only 5 minutes! For you, everything only 50 pounds. Your face is very dry after sun and wind.” The latter part was quite accurate, since I had returned from sea trip few hours earlier. It had been so windy that I almost flew off the captain's bench on the top deck, as I helped him maneuver the yact in heavy wind.
I decided I needed full facial works, so there was more massaging, cream, steaming, and of course tea to drink. Twenty minutes later the treatment ended with a hot towel on my face, followed by a cold one. Voilá! The massage was wonderful, and my skin hasn't felt as soft for weeks. Talk about value for your money!
In the meantime the clothes store had re-opened, and I could purchased my knitwear. Then I proceeded to buy mandarins (”How much?” Normally 2,5, but today for 2 pounds, because it's New Year”, and off I went to prepare New Year's dinner with my flat mate.